Choosing Glasses for Your Face Shape: Which Frame Suits Which Face?
Choosing glasses for your face shape usually means balancing opposite lines: square frames for round faces, round frames for square faces. How to read 52-18-140.
Published: 9 min readGoldeneye Optik
Short answer
The general suggestion is for the frame to balance the face's dominant lines: square frames for round faces, round for square, wider at the bottom for heart, cat-eye for diamond, deep lenses for long faces; oval faces suit most shapes. Frame width should match face width, and you decide by trying frames on. Numbers such as 52-18-140 give lens width, bridge and temple length in millimetres.
Key points
- The general suggestion for choosing glasses by face shape is to try angular frames on soft-featured faces and rounded frames on angular faces.
- Oval faces suit most frame shapes; rectangular frames are suggested for round faces, round and oval for square, teardrop for heart, cat-eye for diamond and deep lenses for long faces.
- A well-fitting frame is about as wide as the face, the eyebrows follow its top line and the bridge sits on the nose.
- The three numbers printed on the inside of the temple, such as 52-18-140, give the lens width, bridge width and temple length in millimetres.
- Face shape suggestions are a starting point; whether a frame suits you can only be seen by trying it on.
Choosing glasses for your face shape means balancing the shape of the frame with the dominant lines of your face: an angular frame for a soft-featured face and a rounded frame for an angular face is the general suggestion. These suggestions are not a rule but a starting point that narrows down the options while you try frames on. Whether a frame fits your face is shown by the three measurements printed inside the temple and by what you see in the mirror, together.
What is choosing glasses by face shape based on?
Choosing glasses by face shape is based on the principle of opposite lines balancing each other. On a soft-featured face an angular frame adds definition; on an angular face with a strong jaw a round frame softens the lines. The aim is not to change the face but for the frame to look proportionate and balanced on it.
This approach looks at three things: the widest part of the face, the ratio of its length to its width and the shape of the jawline. Most people's faces do not match a single shape exactly but are a mix of two. So read the tables below not as a binding list but as a road map showing which frames to start trying.
How do you work out your face shape in the mirror?
You can work out your face shape in a few minutes by pulling your hair back and comparing the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jaw in a well-lit mirror. The steps are:
- Move your hair completely away from your face and stand straight in front of a mirror with the light coming from the front.
- Look at the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jawline; note which is widest.
- Compare the length from your hairline to the tip of your chin with the widest part of your face: is the length clearly longer, or are the two close?
- Look at the shape of your jawline: is it round, angular or pointed?
- If you are not sure, take a photo straight on with your phone and trace the outline of your face on the photo.
Compare what you find with the table below.
| Face shape | How to recognise it |
|---|---|
| Oval | Slightly longer than it is wide, forehead slightly wider than the chin, soft lines. |
| Round | Width and length are close, cheeks are full, chin is rounded. |
| Square | Forehead, cheekbones and jaw are of similar width, jawline is angular and pronounced. |
| Heart | Wide forehead, the face narrows towards the chin, chin is pointed. |
| Diamond | The cheekbones are the widest point, forehead and chin are narrow. |
| Long | Clearly longer than it is wide; forehead, cheeks and jaw are of similar width. |
Which frame suits which face?
The general suggestion is this: oval faces suit most frames; angular frames suit round faces, round frames suit square faces, frames wider at the bottom suit heart-shaped faces, oval or cat-eye frames suit diamond faces, and large frames with deep lenses suit long faces. The table sums up these pairings with the reasons.
| Face shape | Frames worth trying | Why? |
|---|---|---|
| Oval | Most shapes: rectangular, round, teardrop, cat-eye | Balanced proportions work with most frames. |
| Round | Angular and rectangular frames | Straight lines add definition to the face. |
| Square | Round and oval frames | Curved lines soften an angular jawline. |
| Heart | Frames wider at the bottom, teardrop and round frames | Width in the lower part balances a narrow chin with a wide forehead. |
| Diamond | Oval, cat-eye and rimless styles | They highlight the cheekbones and balance a narrow forehead. |
| Long | Large frames with deep lenses | A deep lens visually breaks up the length of the face. |
Oval face
An oval face suits most frame shapes. Here the proportion matters more than the shape: the frame should not be clearly narrower or wider than the widest part of the face.
Round face
On a round face, angular and rectangular frames add definition. Frames that are wider than they are tall make the face look longer. Small, fully round frames, on the other hand, can emphasise the roundness of the face.
Square face
On a square face, round and oval frames soften a strong jawline. Thin metal frames and curved top lines increase this effect. Sharp-cornered, thick frames repeat the angles of the face.
Heart-shaped face
On a heart-shaped face, frames wider at the bottom, teardrop (aviator) and round styles balance a wide forehead and a narrow chin. You can see classic examples of the teardrop shape in our guide to Ray-Ban models. Frames with a very thick or decorative top line draw attention to the forehead.
Diamond face
On a diamond face, oval, cat-eye and rimless styles highlight the cheekbones. Frames with a pronounced top line add width to a narrow forehead. Frames narrower than the cheekbones can make the face look wider than it is.
Long face
On a long face, large frames with deep lenses balance the length of the face. Bold, thick temples and decorative side details give a sense of width. Narrow, shallow frames can make the face look longer.
How should a frame fit your face?
A well-fitting frame is about as wide as your face, your eyebrows follow its top line and the bridge sits on your nose without a gap. Whatever your face shape, these three criteria do not change. When trying frames on, also check that:
- Your eyes are close to the centre of the lenses.
- The temples do not press on your temples or feel uncomfortable behind your ears.
- The frame does not touch your cheeks when you smile.
- The glasses do not slide down your nose when you lean forward.
How do you read frame sizes?
Frame sizes are the three numbers printed on the inside of the temple: lens width, bridge width and temple length, in that order. All three are in millimetres. For example, on a frame marked 52-18-140, the lens is 52 mm wide, the bridge 18 mm and the temple 140 mm long.
| Position | Measurement | What it shows | In the 52-18-140 example |
|---|---|---|---|
| First number | Lens width | Horizontal width of one lens | 52 mm |
| Second number | Bridge width | The distance between the two lenses that sits over the nose | 18 mm |
| Third number | Temple length | Length from the hinge to the end of the temple behind the ear | 140 mm |
On most frames the numbers are on the inside of the temple, on some on the inside of the bridge. There may be a hyphen or a small square symbol between the first two numbers. The same line usually also shows the model and colour codes; you can read what these codes mean in our article how to spot original sunglasses.
The three measurements affect the fit like this:
- Lens width determines how wide the frame will sit on your face.
- Bridge width determines how the frame sits on your nose: a bridge that is narrow for your nose pinches, and one that is wide lets the frame slide down.
- Temple length determines whether the temple comfortably reaches behind your ear: a short temple presses behind the ear, and a long one leaves the glasses loose.
If you have a pair of glasses that feels comfortable, look at the numbers on the temple and start with similar measurements when looking for a new frame. Some models are made in more than one size; the same model with a different lens width can look completely different on your face. Even so, the numbers do not tell the whole story: lens height, frame thickness, nose pads and material are not reflected in these three numbers. That is why two frames with the same measurements can fit differently.
How do you choose a frame colour for your skin and hair colour?
The general suggestion for frame colour is to try warm colours with warm-undertone skin and cool colours with cool-undertone skin. You can roughly tell your undertone by looking at the veins on the inside of your wrist in daylight: if they look closer to green, a warm undertone dominates; if they look closer to blue or purple, a cool one.
| Feature | Frame colours worth trying |
|---|---|
| Warm-undertone skin | Brown, honey, tortoiseshell, gold, olive green |
| Cool-undertone skin | Black, grey, silver, navy, burgundy |
| Dark hair | Black, dark tortoiseshell, rich colours, metal frames |
| Fair or blonde hair | Light brown, honey, transparent and pastel tones |
| Red hair | Green, brown and tortoiseshell tones |
| Grey or white hair | Navy, grey, burgundy, black |
Eye colour can also be taken into account: a frame close to or contrasting with the colour of your eyes brings out your gaze. With sunglasses, the lens shapes the look as much as the frame; you can find how the tints differ in use in our article on sunglass lens colours.
Why not decide without trying frames on?
Because face shape tables and size numbers only narrow down the options; whether a frame suits you and whether it is comfortable can only be seen on your face. Two people with the same face shape differ in nose shape, brow line, haircut and personal style. When trying frames on, you can follow this order:
- Choose two or three frames from the shapes suggested for your face shape.
- For comparison, also try a frame outside the suggestions.
- With each frame, look in the mirror from the front and the side, and take a photo if you can.
- Keep the frame on for a few minutes; do you feel pressure, slipping or weight?
- Leave small fit adjustments to the temple tips and nose pads to the optician.
In a place with strong sun like Antalya, sunglasses stay on your face for most of the day throughout the summer. So comfort matters as much as appearance: a well-fitting frame stays on your face all day without you noticing it.
Frequently asked questions
How do I find out my face shape?
Pull your hair back and look straight at your face in a well-lit mirror. Notice which is widest: your forehead, cheekbones or jawline; how long your face is compared with its width; and whether your chin is round, angular or pointed. These three observations show which of the oval, round, square, heart, diamond or long shapes your face is closest to. Most faces are a mix of two shapes.
Which glasses suit a round face?
For a round face the general suggestion is angular and rectangular frames, because straight lines add definition to a soft-featured face. Frames that are wider than they are tall make the face look longer. Small, fully round frames can emphasise the roundness of the face. These are not binding rules but suggestions for where to start trying; make the final decision by seeing the frame on your face.
Which frames suit a square face?
Round and oval frames are suggested for a square face, because curved lines soften a strong, angular jawline. Thin metal frames and curved top lines increase this effect. Sharp-cornered, thick frames repeat the angles of the face. Whichever shape you choose, a frame width close to the width of your face matters for a balanced look.
What does 52-18-140 on the temple of glasses mean?
These three numbers are the measurements of the frame, in millimetres. The first number is the horizontal width of one lens, the second is the width of the bridge between the two lenses and the third is the temple length. So on a frame marked 52-18-140, the lens is 52 mm wide, the bridge 18 mm and the temple 140 mm. The numbers are usually on the inside of the temple, next to the model and colour codes.
How do you choose a frame colour for your skin and hair colour?
The general suggestion is to try warm colours such as brown, honey, tortoiseshell and gold with warm-undertone skin, and cool colours such as black, grey, silver and navy with cool-undertone skin. Dark hair carries rich, dark colours well, fair hair honey and pastel tones, and grey hair colours such as navy and burgundy. These are style suggestions; what you see in the mirror counts for more than the table.
Can I wear a frame that does not match my face shape?
Yes. Face shape suggestions are not rules but general style principles that help narrow down the options. If a frame matches the width of your face, sits on your nose, does not slide and you like it in the mirror, it does not matter that it is not named in the table. Your personal style, your haircut and where you will wear the glasses also affect the choice. So it is worth trying a different frame alongside the suggested shapes.
This article is for general information only and does not replace diagnosis or treatment. For any concern about your eyes, see an ophthalmologist.
